Travel
A magical day on Rottnest Island
Turns out the quokkas are only one of the highlights of Rottnest Island.
By Leonie Jarrett
My husband and I had a day trip planned to the marine paradise on Perth’s doorstep – Wadjemup/Rottnest Island (“Rotto”). We were instructed to arrive by 6.30am to catch the earliest ferry from Hillary’s Boat Harbour. The things that you do on holiday!
Onboard the ferry with takeaway coffee in hand, we chose seats inside as it was threatening rain. The crossing was also on the rough side (fifteen knots) so this little duckie was happy when the forty-five minute ferry ride ended.
A super early start and queasiness all by 8.15am. The early signs for our Rotto day trip were not promising.
Pedal power
Once off the ferry, we followed the signs to the bike hire facility, cutely named Pedal and Flipper Hire. There were all sorts of bikes to rent as well as mandatory helmets.
Rotto is carless (except for a few work vehicles and the tourist bus that does a hop on/hop off circuit of the Island). This makes the island a haven for cyclists. There are paved roads which makes cycling easy, although be aware that Rottnest is mainly sand dunes so there are some hills.
.png)
We decided to head for the Wadjemup Lighthouse. This is the highest point of the island, so it made logical sense as our destination. But let’s just say it was a rapid reminder of how hilly Rottnest really is; cue me pushing my bike up a few hills! Note to self: book early and secure e-bikes next time! Better still, book bike hire in combination with the ferry tickets.
.png)
We cycled the coastal bike trail from the main settlement (otherwise known as Thomson Bay – it’s where the ferries arrive and depart) to the lighthouse and returned on the inland road. Even on a grey day, the route hugging the beaches is breathtaking, so we stopped at each beach to soak in the views.
Quokkas, quokkas, quokkas
Quokkas, which look like a small kangaroo, are native to Rottnest Island and they roam freely around the island. One of the main reasons we went to Rottnest was to see a quokka, but we didn’t see a single quokka in our 10+ kilometre bike ride. So I was starting to be a bit concerned that we wouldn’t see one – they are wild animals after all.
We parked our bikes at the main settlement and, there, I spied my first quokka! Tame as you like and hopping about. I went mad snapping photos and videos. Lunch was calling and we chose to eat outside at Hotel Rottnest. Fish and chips for my husband and a pizza for me, served with a Gage Roads beer from Fremantle.
.png)
Then I saw another quokka. And another one. And another one. I even saw one with a baby in her pouch! Cue squeals from me. As it happened, we saw loads of quokkas and my cup was full.
.png)
Bluedazzling
If my cup was full from seeing quokkas, it overflowed as the skies cleared and the sun put on a dazzling show. We decided to ride a smaller and flatter loop of about four kilometres to Geordie Bay and back.
.png)
Our first stop was The Basin. What a gorgeous beach with a fabulous set up! There were lifeguards, public toilets, public seating, a restaurant, outdoor showers, loads of bike racks, barbecues and covered shelters. All the facilities you could need or want for a day at the beach. Nature has done its work here too – the cerulean water was shimmeringly transparent with great snorkelling, gentle waves and silky white sand.
Next stop was Longreach Bay and then on to Geordie Bay. ‘Exquisite’ doesn’t even come close! These beaches are straight out of a postcard or holiday brochure – curved bays of white sand and crystal-clear water. Self-contained holiday apartments, all with water views, dot the beaches. Another note to self: book a few nights here next time!
.png)
We stopped for coffee at Geordie Longreach Village Square and we giggled at the quokka-proof gate to the General Store. We hadn’t seen one of those before!
.png)
An unexpected highlight
We wanted to go to Wadjemup/Rottnest Island to see a quokka. We saw plenty and they are truly super cute.
The highlight of the day, though, were the beaches – glorious, spectacular and pristine. There are actually 63 beaches and 20 bays on Rottnest Island and we only had the chance to see a few of them.
Next time, we’re booking one of those apartments we spied at Geordie Bay. There’s some swimming and snorkelling for us to do; and no doubt a few more quokkas to see.
Oh, and for fellow sea-sickness sufferers, I can report that the ferry crossing back to Perth was a glide across a millpond. What a magical day!
Good to know
- There is plentiful, free all-day parking at Hillary’s Boat Harbour, Perth.
- Rottnest Fast Ferries is the only locally-owned and family-run ferry service between Perth and Rottnest Island
- It’s a good idea to pre-book your bike hire with your ferry ticket. You then take your hired bike on the ferry and skip the queue when you arrive at Rottnest.
- If cycling on the 22 kilometres of cycling paths and roads isn’t your thing, there are 45 kilometres of walking trails.
- Carry water with you: there is limited drinking water outside The Settlement.
- Quokkas are wild and endangered so they shouldn’t be fed nor touched. It’s important to dispose of rubbish carefully too so as to prevent the quokkas (and other wildlife) from eating human food and becoming sick.
- You can visit for the day like we did or there's overnight accommodation for every style and budget.
Leonie travelled between Perth and Wadjemup/Rottnest Island as a guest of Rottnest Fast Ferries, part of Pinnacle Travel Group.
Feature image: Leonie Jarrett
Tell us in the comments: What’s cuter than a quokka?
More ways to spend a day or two: