Travel
Discovering the Mekong cruise
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From bustling floating markets to quiet Cambodian riverbanks, Leonie Jarrett discovers the soul of the Mekong on an intimate, "light adventure" cruise through Vietnam and Cambodia.
By Leonie Jarrett
This cruise was the first time that my husband and I have cruised in Asia. It was also the smallest ship we have ever been on (only fourteen cabins with a maximum of twenty-eight guests). Over eight nights, the Discovery Tour with CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope took us from Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam to Siem Reap in Cambodia.
Impressions of the Mekong River
The Mekong River is the lifeblood of six countries. Sometimes called “The Mother of Rivers,” the Mekong is a freshwater river which starts in China and runs nearly 5,000 kilometres to Vietnam. Sixty million plus people live along the Mekong River.
Wide and fast-flowing, we sometimes counted five ships abreast the Mekong including ours. Some were other river cruise boats but most were commercial ships - container ships, barges, ferries and fishing boats.
Along the Vietnamese portion of the cruise, there seemed to be no empty space along the banks of the Mekong. All was occupied with housing or industry. When we reached the much less populated Cambodia, the riverbanks were more rural.
All the way along the Mekong, we loved seeing the rice fields and the floating houses, villages and fish farms.
What did we see and do?
The Discovery Tour on the Toum Tiou II (TT2) is primarily a look at rural villages in Vietnam and Cambodia with some beautiful scenic cruising. The ship docks every night which means guests can take advantage of the views. Interestingly (and in a first for us), the ship does not always dock at pontoons. It often docks in the middle of the river!
There are three “big city” ports – Ho Chi Minh, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There is lots to see at each city but, for me, the highlights of this cruise were the villages.
We had a bird’s eye view to the locals going about their daily lives. Whether it was a family piled onto one scooter, kids walking to school, men fishing or women shopping for fresh vegetables at the market, it was all real and not sanitized. Fascinating!
This cruise was cultural immersion but also packed with active tours (all of which are included in the cruise fare). There were always options to remain on the TT2 if you wanted or to join the tour but ride in a vehicle rather than walk or cycle. We had some more mature guests onboard and a guest with an injured ankle and they were all included rather than sidelined.
An action-packed day
One of my favourite days was also one of the busiest. Docked in the midst of the Mekong Delta, we started on a local boat which we embarked from our ship. Novel but we became accustomed to doing this. Our local boat then docked at Thoi Son (Unicorn Island), Vietnam, (one of four islands which comprise My Tho). At eleven kilometres long and one kilometre wide, Unicorn Island is the largest of the four islands comprising My Tho.
First up was a walk with our Vietnamese guide, Bang, and our local guide, Miss Mai. We walked through a fruit garden and Miss Mai pointed out lemongrass, pomelos (similar to grapefruit), jackfruit, pandan leaf and cumquats. We then sat down to a plate of fresh fruit and tea whilst local musicians entertained us.
Next was a bike ride (or, alternately, golf buggy ride) around Unicorn Island, finishing off with a canoe ride wearing an iconic nón lá (conical hat) along a natural waterway and through a Nipa Palm Forest.
Back on the local boat, we stopped at a bee farm and sampled tea which was a mixture of honey, bee pollen, cumquats and pandan leaf tea, accompanied by yummy banana chips with sesame and ginger. Sweet and sour; yin and yang. Lip-smacking!
All this was before 10.30am (!!) when we returned to TT2 and were greeted (as always) by a refreshing cool face washer and a cold drink.
After lunch, another local boat ride to a different village (Cai Be) where we watched a demonstration of making rice paper and then a demonstration of popping rice and delicious fudge-like sweets made with coconut milk.
Another cycle (or golf buggy) ride but this time to a cooking class. We started with fresh spring rolls (what I would call rice paper rolls) then deep-fried spring rolls. The last dish was our favourite, Bánh Xèo - the Vietnamese crispy savoury pancake that we love and seek out at home in Melbourne.
After eating what we’d prepared, we cycled on to a floating market where we kayaked serenely through a village. Returning to the TT2 on the local boat, it was time for sunset drinks on the Sun Deck and dinner. WHAT. A. DAY!
What are the ship and the cabins like?
The TT2 including the cabins has an intimate, authentic Asian look and feel with highly-polished timber throughout. Our cabin was compact but it had everything we needed including: a very comfortable bed, split-system air conditioner and a roomy ensuite.
There are cabins on the Main Deck, the restaurant and our cabin are on the Upper Deck and the top Deck is the Sun Deck. With lounge furniture, sun lounges, ample shade and a bar, the Sun Deck was our favourite space on the ship. It caught a breeze and it was a lovely spot to relax whilst watching the river traffic and the changing scenery.
What’s the food like?
Breakfast and lunch are buffets with an egg station at breakfast. There were always vegetarian options and the mains, mostly Asian-inspired, changed every day and were wholesome and tasty. Standouts for me were crispy roast pork and fried chicken wings.
On a couple of nights, dinner was family-style sharing but, mostly, it was a four-course menu where you chose a main course.
What sort of onboard entertainment is there?
In short, not a lot so pack your devices loaded with things to watch and/or read (the WiFi provided only works on the Sun Deck and coverage is patchy).
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One night, there was a traditional Apsara dance show and a karaoke night on another night where the crew and guests all had the opportunity to perform! Both were on the Sun Deck with a gorgeous cool breeze wafting through.
The ship overnighted in both Ho Chi Minh and Phnom Penh – we disembarked and explored on our own on both nights. Local transport is super cheap and super easy – best to download Grab (Southeast Asia’s version of Uber).
What did we think?
Billed as “light adventure,” this cruise had everything – not just adventure but culture, history and fun! We had guided excursions off the ship every day - walking tours, cycling tours, kayaking, tuk-tuk tours, many varieties of boat rides, cooking classes, museum tours, market visits (food and clothes) and artisan demonstrations. Seeing pottery being made without a wheel was unique!
We also had local guides every day as well as a Vietnamese guide who stayed with us in Vietnam and a Cambodian guide whilst we were travelling in Cambodia. These guides all gave us local insights that we would not have appreciated if we were travelling independently.
The Discovery Tour is a front row seat as to how people along the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia live. The local village element was what really stood out on this trip.
Bring on more cruises in Asia. This first one was a belter!
Leonie’s travel notes
- CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope has five ships cruising the Mekong. All are different styles and sizes.
- The Discovery Tour starts in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam and ends in Siem Reap, Cambodia (or vice versa). A bus trip of 4-5 hours takes guests between the ship and Siem Reap.
- There is no lift in the TT2. Spiral staircases connect the three decks.
- The TT2 only docks at a few pontoons egs Ho Chi Minh, Koh Chen and Chau Doc. Other ports require a transfer from TT2 to another ship or a riverbank so this cruise is not necessarily suitable for anyone who is mobility-challenged. The crew were very helpful but some level of mobility and agility is needed.
- Take small denominations of USD and/or the local currency for any small purchases and also for tipping guides. There are local guides every day (sometimes, more than one) plus a guide for Vietnam who stays onboard and a guide for Cambodia who stays onboard.
- Onboard services are charged in USD. For instance, you can have laundry done on board and a massage in your cabin. Both of these services are chargeable.
The writer and her husband travelled on the TOUM TIOU II Discovery Tour as guests of CF Mekong by CroisiEurope.
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