Travel

Going solo in Ubud helped Bron move into her next life stage

A spontaneous budget solo trip to Ubud turned out to be the ideal place for a little reflection and a whole lot of adventure. 

By Bron Maxabella

I recently booked a solo week in Bali on a whim. I needed an affordable break from the hum-drum of everyday life with equal-parts adventure and reflection time. With my youngest nearing the end of school and about to do her HSC, I felt the pull to pause and take stock. So I packed a carry-on bag full of swimmers and pointed myself towards two places in Bali that seemed to offer what I craved: Ubud and Amed.

Now, we know Bali has plenty of party spots, if that’s what you’re after, but I wanted something more inward-looking (I won’t dare to say ‘spiritual’ but more on that later). Somewhere I could be anonymous, a little-bit adventurous (without too many spectators), and find the freedom to do absolutely nothing if that’s what the day called for. Both Ubud and Amed seemed to offer the ‘quiet, but make it thrilling’ atmosphere I craved.

Here’s my rundown of my time in Ubud and I’ll fill you in on the Amed leg next time.

Ubud: still peaceful despite the crazy

My budget Jetstar arrival time meant it was after 2am when we drove into town, but the streets and traffic were still heaving. Immediately I was questioning why I’d chosen Ubud as the place to ‘get away from it all’, but then we parked up and made our way along a winding path over a creek and into Nick’s Hidden Cottages – a budget-friendly oasis.

The meandering walk to Nick’s Hidden Cottages was a pathway to Bali peace all on its own. Image: Bron Maxabella

After a night stretched across my comfy king-sized bed, starfish-style, I awoke to the sound of birdsong and knew I’d found the right place. Nick’s is tucked away behind Jalan Bisma, a popular street in the heart of town that offers a diversity of restaurants, cafes, spas and shops. Which all sounds very busy, but Nick’s is down a long path off the main street and the view is green in every direction, the air thick with frangipani and incense.

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The view from the patio outside my room at Nick’s. Image: Bron Maxabella

Walks and temples 

My 4 days in Ubud had a gentle rhythm. Early morning breakfast of fresh fruit and nasi goreng on the outdoor patio followed by a swim. 

Brekkie on the patio was the perfect way to start each day. Image: Bron Maxabella

Then I’d head out for a walk before the humidity settled in. The Campuhan Ridge Walk was an easy favourite – a long, undulating path through rolling hills I did just after sunrise when the light was soft and Ubud about as quiet as it gets. I accessed the walk off Jl Bankiam Sidum, which is off the main road Jl Rabud Ubud. You’ll feel like you’re walking into a private driveway, but keep going because that’s the path.

A slow walk along the Campuhan Ridge is a fast-track away from the noise of downtown Ubud. Image: iStock/Nikada

Along the walk I spent some time exploring the beautiful Gunung Lebah Temple by the Campuhan Ubud river. It’s a traditional place of meditation and it was here that I found the space for the solitary reflection I was seeking. There was a peace here that is hard to find elsewhere and I instantly understood why many people journey to Bali for spiritual healing.

A Balinese Barong stone carving at the Pura Gunung Lebah Temple. Barong is a mythical lion like creature who is the king of the spirit world in Balinese Hinduism. Image: iStock/lleerogers

On the other side of the easy-but-hot-and-humid – this was Indonesia after all – walk, I stopped at Karsa Kafe for a fresh juice and views across the rice paddies. Then I mustered up my youthful self and jumped on the back of a Grab bike for a speedy trip along winding roads to enjoy a 5-star spa treatment at Green Tara Spa.

Bikes and adventures

A word on that Grab ride, my first: I was beyond nervous. I’d seen enough of the roads and traffic around Ubud to know that scooting around wasn’t going to be a leisurely ride. But taking a car was going to take twice as long and cost 5x as much, so I was highly motivated to just leap on and go, go, go. And it was fine. In fact, it was exciting and fun and taking that first ride meant I could get around on the back of a bike from that moment on. With cars crawling along bumper-to-bumper, weaving around them on the back of a bike is the only way to go. Just make sure that bike has a spare helmet. 

Ubud traffic is not for the faint of heart (or anyone in a hurry). Image: Bron Maxabella

Zipping around on the back of a motorbike also bolstered my courage to book an e-bike ride through Ubud and out to the rice paddies. I cycled the half-day Ubud to UNESCO world heritage site Tegalalang with e-Bikes Bali and it was perfect. The guide was superb and the e-bikes were easy to manage and not challenging at all. 

I was adopted for the afternoon by a lovely Belgian family, which made the experience extra fun and went a long way to subduing the pangs of loneliness that I was already feeling after a couple of days away from home. 

The author with her new Belgian family at Bali Pulina coffee plantation. Image: Courtesy of Bron Maxabella

We rode through villages and rice paddies, visited a family temple and a luwak coffee plantation (not my thing, so I declined) and swung over the rice paddies on a Balinese swing as the sky turned crimson. 

Even snapped with one hand on an iPhone from the back of a moving e-bike, Ubud delivers the goods. Image: Bron Maxabella

I was sure that this magical day couldn’t be topped, but the next day found me lining up to go whitewater rafting with Rafting Bali. Honestly, who even was I at this point? I found the experience thrilling and relaxing in equal measure and would highly recommend it as a way to jolt yourself out of any comfort zone you may be stuck in. That said, the next day I was very happy to be permanently stuck in a comfort zone by the pool as I could barely lift my arms and the rest of me wasn’t faring much better.

Other activities you might enjoy in Ubud

Solo tripping is all about the food

As much as I adore my husband, friends and family, I think eating out alone is one of life’s great pleasures (right up there with going to see a movie by myself). Lucky for me, Ubud is a place to eat extremely well. 

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A book and a good meal: does life get any better? Image: Bron Maxabella

I enjoyed the best nasi campur I’ve ever eaten in the tiny Red Rice Warang (Jl. Bangkiang Sidem, Tegallalang) and would also happily have eaten every meal at Warung@Bhisma (Jl Bisma No 76, Ubud). The vegan Zest Ubud (Jl Penestanan No 7, Sayan, Kecamatan Ubud) was a ‘destination’ restaurant that was stylish and creative and worth the higher prices. Other notable places where I thoroughly enjoyed a meal included:

At every spot, I ate alone without feeling conspicuous, lingering over meals with a book or simply kicking back to watch the street life (which consisted mainly of scooters and drunk bogan Aussies, if I’m honest).

Why going alone mattered

Travelling solo at this stage of life felt significant. With kids growing up and stepping out into the world, I’m at an identity crossroads. This trip helped me decide what that might look like. 

What the ‘next chapter’ may or may not look like. Image: Bron Maxabella

It had been a very long time since I had travelled alone and good old Bali felt like an easy re-introduction. I’d forgotten how powerful it feels to navigate a completely new place on your own. Making decisions without consultation, sitting with silence and being able to plan my days exactly to suit myself. I got to be adventurous in ways I didn’t expect, but I also delighted in doing nothing much when it suited me (I read 5 books during my time away). In Bali, I found a version of myself that felt both familiar and newly confident.

Feature image: iStock/Oleh_Slobodeniuk

Tell us in the comments: Do you like travelling on your own?

More trips you might like to take:

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