Flavours of Malaysia: a culinary journey to my roots

When Matt Cheok finally visited Malaysia he expected great food. What he didn’t expect was how deeply each bite would reconnect him to family, childhood memories and a sense of self he didn’t know he’d been missing.

By Matt Cheok

Despite my Malaysian heritage, until this trip I hadn’t yet set foot in the homeland. It always felt too familiar, too close to home to spark curiosity – there was always somewhere else more exciting and intriguing that I felt inclined to travel to. But then, a window opened between wrapping up my time in South Korea and attending a wedding in Hungary.

I scanned the map, looking for my next move. With just two weeks ahead of me, all I wanted was to enjoy some great food. Unlike my usual trips, there was no need for adventure travel, no hopping between places, just a destination to savour and explore. And perhaps, deep down, the memories and stories of Malay food I’d gathered over the years nudged me. Acting impulsively, I booked the ticket, not realising I was about to start a journey I never knew I needed.

Familiarity with the unfamiliar

Arriving at 5 am, I boarded a train to the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. But already, a strange sense of familiarity overcame me as I braved the unrelenting heat and humidity before the sun had even risen – perhaps from how my family had described the country. 

After a few hours of shut-eye, my belly gave me my marching orders to find food. I set off on a walk and got distracted by a long queue and the irresistible smell of roti wafting from the shopfront. Customers around me patiently lined up, clutching fan coolers and handheld fans to fend off the heat. I joined the queue, and when it was finally my turn, I sat down and took my first bite. The crispy exterior and the juicy, beef-filled goodness inside instantly brought a smile to my face.

In Kuala Lumpur, sightseeing often involves frequent recovery breaks in air-conditioned spaces, only to step back into the heat as soon as you venture outside again. Yet, there’s something about it that grows on you. After a while, it becomes bearable, and oddly, people seem to prefer being outside, especially in the evenings. 

Kuala Lumpur has a unique ambience of food, community and socialising as people come together over a meal. In Chinatown, the atmosphere is electric. Red plastic tables and chairs set the scene for authentic street food, with the scent of chicken wings engulfing the air. 

Food markets buzz with chatter and laughter, and large industrial fans struggle to keep up with the energy around them. These markets stay open late, offering food at any hour of the day.

During my visit, catching up with family relatives who visited us in Australia years ago felt grounding and familiar. Their stories and presence brought back memories from my childhood, reconnecting me with moments I hadn’t thought about in years.

Food is the heart of Malaysian culture

In Malaysia, food is at the heart of the experience – you see it, smell it and taste it everywhere. Durians are proudly displayed at shopfronts, while the mouthwatering scent of steamed dim sum fills the air. Fresh fish rest in tanks and servers, with friendly persistence, invite you to dine. Behind the scenes, the prep work unfolds before you. It’s a sensory journey that draws you in, forging a deep connection.

One of my favourite spots in Chinatown is Tang City Food Court, known for its exceptional yum cha offerings – a must-visit for all Citro readers. Westlake Restaurant is another gem, famous for its incredible noodles and dumplings. And, of course, a trip to Kuala Lumpur wouldn’t be complete without indulging in the chicken wings at Wong Ah Wah, perfectly paired with a cold beer – it’s simply an unbeatable combination.

A side-trip to Penang

During my time in Malaysia, I also ventured up to Penang, inspired by the stories my parents would share when I was a teenager. My Dad often reminisced about satay skewers, char kway teow and exploring the town’s street murals and vibrant art scene. In Penang, you can simply wander, letting the tempting scents of incredible food guide you.

Do I feel fully Malaysian? Growing up in an Australian household and a predominantly white community, I don’t entirely identify with it. But in Malaysia, I felt an immediate sense of comfort; connecting with the environment and tasting food that brought back childhood memories. And while I may not have the stamina to handle the heat for long, I can confidently say this won’t be my last visit. My fondness for the place grew stronger, and that experience has already inspired me to plan another trip.

Malaysia is truly wonderful as a holiday destination, whether as a quick stopover or the main focus of your trip. It’s conveniently close to Australia, offers a rich culinary experience, and has something for both discerning food lovers and adventurous eaters. The food is top-notch, the country is safe to explore, and English is widely spoken.

If my food photos haven’t convinced you yet, go and experience it firsthand! You’ll leave with a full belly and a heart full of memories.

^{Feature image: Matt Cheok}

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